There is no question in my mind, after five years of raising all the meat my family eats and comparing it with what is served in restaurants and other homes, that Americans buy, at high prices, and eat, in incredible quan- tities, the worst-quality meat possible. What I should say about beef is in Larousse Gastronomique, the encyclo- pedia of cookery: “The best meat, espe- cially for roasts, comes from five- to six-year-old, grass-fattened oxen.” But the beef you’ll eat tonight and most other nights will come from an animal aged less than two years that never saw much grass in his life. …