权力餐厅：从四季酒店到Cote 550的餐饮权力游戏

In culinary history, no place has nailed the semiotics of being a power restaurant as well as the Four Seasons. Architect Philip Johnson’s 1959 Gesamtkunstwerk inside Mies van der Rohe’s Seagram Building on Park Avenue, the exemplar of International Style modernism, exerted an irresistible gravitational pull on Manhattan’s corporate elite. Jackie Onassis called it “the cathedral,” for good reason. El Morocco in its heyday ◼ HORST P. HORST/CONDE NAST/GETTY IMAGES Now a pretender to the throne, Cote 550, has opened a few blocks away on Madison, in the icon of post modernism that is Johnson’s 1984 AT&T Building. …